The Beauty Equation Challenge 6: Radiance

Teach:

Radiance – To enhance the brilliance of your inner glow

“The mirror can be your friend, but it is not the gateway to your magnificence.” – Nigel Barker

Nigel brings us into the 6^th challenge, Radiance by questioning what it is we see when we look through the mirror. He wants us to stop our obsession with picking out our imperfections and flaws and realize that the mirror is only a mere mathematical tool for finding our Beauty Equation. The mirror functions as a plus or minus sign depending on our self-esteem when we look into it. Only someone who is capable of controlling their self-perceptions can use the tool correctly. This teach will be difficult for those who struggle with Body Dysmorphic Disorder, an obsession with a perceived flaw or minor imperfections. I challenge you to find the balance in questioning who you really are, not too much and not too little. This is important because this chapter talks about outer presentation, meaning your skin, hair, and clothes that tell your inner story.

“Beauty is never really found when you’re sitting in front of a mirror. You feel beautiful when you are out… finding those happy moments in life.” – Kimmy Hise

Nigel Barker cleverly reminds us that beauty is only skin-deep, superficial and we must look within a person to find their true beauty. He stated, “Just as everyone is  innocent until proven guilty, everyone is beautiful until proven ugly.” I thought this was a clever analogy.

We send messages to people around us about who we are by the way we behave, how we wear our makeup, and the choice of clothes we wear. All of these things are associated with our inner beauty or lack thereof.  It’s much harder to develop our character than it is to change our outer appearance to reflect the beauty we possess inside. Developing character is an individual task that takes time and requires the ability to understand yourself and who you are within. Work at it!

As far as our outer appearance, we MUST take good care of our skin, hair, entire body and even our wardrobe. Nigel advises that if you wear makeup, don’t over do it.  He agreed with Tyra that makeup can make a women feel confident and enhance natural features, but only if its done in the right proportions. Here are his makeup dos and don’ts

Do:

Love Your Skin

·      Your skin is the largest and most visible of your organs. It lives and breathes just like your heart.

·      Never put on makeup without washing and moisturizing your face and always remove your makeup at the end of the day.

·      Drink plenty of water.

·      Exfoliate at least once a week.

·      Steam bath your face.

·      Get some sleep!

·      Wear a hat in the sun

·      Wear sunscreen

See The Light

·      Do your makeup in proper lighting.

·      Study your face in different lighting using the shadows and highlights to understand and learn how lighting affects your features and how you look.

·      Use products that can mimic lighting effects (i.e. bronzer).

Remember Less is More

·      The less makeup you wear the more you shine through.

·      Experiment and learn what products work best for your features.

·      You don’t have to use ever type of makeup available (foundation, mascara, eyeshadow, lipstick, concealer). Only use what is needed to enhance your own unique equation.

Blur the Lines

·      Blend your makeup so that there are never any harsh lines. This stands true for foundation as well as eyeshadow and lipliner with lipsticks.

·      When you are done with your makeup, set it with a fluffy brush and translucent powder. Don’t forget your neck and hairline.

Protect the Innocent

·      Apply your makeup in a bathrobe or cover your outfit.

·      Use cruelty-free makeup (protect the animals that are used in the name of cosmetic research

·      People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) has an online database of companies and brands that test their beauty products on animals.

·      While doing your makeup, have your upper chest exposed to accurately match your foundation with your body’s skintone and blend your foundation evenly.

Practice, Practice, Practice

·      Practice at home even when you have nowhere to go.

·      Makeup application is 10 percent skill and 90 percent practice.

Don’t:

Don’t Reflect Too Much

·      Too much shimmer can catch the light and reflect in an awkward unflattering way.

·      Contour your face properly. Light pops features out and dark pushes features in.

·      Use shimmer on the bridge of your nose, the inner corners of your eyes, and the apples of your cheeks.

·      Don’t place too much shimmer on the brow bone (under your eyebrows) This can reflect badly in pictures.

Don’t Cover Up

·      Covering up skin problems such as acne or rosacea with heavy makeup can appear cakey.

·      Focus on skincare rather than makeup products to clear skin ailments.

·      Covering acne with light concealer will make it stand out even more, instead dab it with a foundation that matches your skintone and dust over it with powder

Don’t Clash

·      Use eyeshadow colors that compliment your skintone.

·      Always check expiration dates on products and store them well.

·      Update your makeup often, throwing out old mascara and sponges that may contain dirt and bacteria

·      Have Winter and Summer makeup because with each season, the shade of your skin changes.

Don’t Be a Victim

·      Makeup counters don’t have the proper lighting to match your skintone with foundation

·      A sales rep at the makeup counter is there to sell and may tell you anything to earn their commission.

·      Bring a friend

·      Walk outside in the natural light to compare your skintone with a tested spot of foundation.

Don’t Be Lowbrow

·      Don’t overtweeze your eyebrows.

·      Full eyebrows are associated with youthfulness

·      Follow the natural shape of your eyebrows when shaping them

·      Pluck one hair at a time and take it slow!

Don’t Fool Yourself

·      Just because a makeup trend is hot, does not mean it fits you

Don’t Stress Out

·      Do 30 min of aerobic exercise a day to keep your mind off your worries.

Don’t Mash Your Face

·      Your skin reacts to repetition and will begin to train the lines in your face to become more prominent.

“Realize that God gave you the features you have for a reason – mess with them and you might ruin his masterpiece.” – Andrea Dawn Clark

This chapter went more in depth about hair and clothes, but I’ll save that info for another day… If I still have your attention, let’s fast forward to the challenge!

“The only way to choose the “right” makeup, hair and clothing is to understand your total Beauty Equation”, according to Nigel, “You can’t look to others to define what you should wear any more than you can look to others to tell you who you are. Develop yourself and you will know what your personal style should be.”

Challenges:

1. Remove all your makeup and clean your face so that you are 100% natural. Let your hair down and wash any products that may be in it out. Take a beauty shot of yourself, just your face and hair wearing only your smile. Take a self-portrait and submit it to me at BlushingAmbers@gmail.com

Here's my naked face.

2. Studying your face in the portrait you just took, what do you believe your best features are? Accent that area with makeup. You want to draw attention to your greatest attribute. Take another self-portrait and submit it to me at BlushingAmbers@gmail.com

Drawing attention to my eyes with mascara on my lashes

3. This time create your signature look using all of the makeup you believe is necessary for a flawless look. Compare the 3 pictures and tell me which one you believe suits you best. Submit the self-portrait and your answer to BlushingAmbers@gmail.com

I feel more comfortable with this look because makeup makes me feel confident and hides my flaws.

 

The Science of Makeup: Wearing Your Best Skin

Every Friday we have been discussing skin, how to be healthy on the inside and out and how to have the best canvas for makeup. As we transition into more detailed topics that focus on the technical and theoretical aspects of makeup and skincare I wanted to write a wrap-up. Here's a few notes on how to wear your best skin.

3 Ways to Get to the Best Layers of Your Skin:
Exfoliate - remove layers of your skin using a scrub. I use the Target brand Up & Up Apricot Scrub. It's inexpensive, leaves my skin feeling smooth, and evens my skin complexion.

Chemical Peels - These are usually several treatments done at a spa or doctors office that unclog pores, smooth skin, fade dark marks and even skin tones.

Dermabrasion/Microdermabrasion - Another treatment done over time that removes layers of skin  by sanding the skin with salt crystals or aluminum oxide. This is a skin resurfacing process that treats acne, wrinkles and scars. This is best performed by a doctor.

5 Things You Can Do to Have Better Skin:

1. Control the amount of oil your skin produces. If you have oily skin cut down on the amount of oil your skin produces by wearing face primers such as milk of magnesia under your makeup or using products like H2O+  Face Oasis Shine Neutralizing Gel and Formula 10.0.6 No Time to Shine Oil-Absorbing Mud Mask (Ulta).

2. Remember that skin needs some oil. Our skin releases sebum, which is oil, to protect our skin and hair and prevent dehydration. Because of this your skin needs oil, especially in the summer.

3. Use a moisturizer that works well with your skin type. Meaning, if you have oily skin, use an oil-free moisturizer.

4. Wear Sunscreen with SPF of at least 30 using a golf ball size amount and reapplying every 2 hours.


5. Drink more water and be selective in your food choices. Much of what happens on outside of your body is directly related to what you put into your body.

For more info on my skincare regimen products and what they do click here.

The Science of Makeup: A Clean Cut on InGrown Hairs and Razer Bumps (For Men)

What is the biggest symbol of masculinity? Facial Hair! Boys can't wait to grow it in, just so they can shave it off. Unfortunately, they weren't expecting to experience ingrown hairs or razor bumps.  Fellas, as well as ladies encounter the annoyance of ingrown hairs and razor bumps. I especially sympathize for the men who have them most frequently occur on their face where they leave dark marks on the skin.  "It's estimated that at least 80 percent of all African-American men suffer from razor bumps" (Beautiful Skin of Color)


What are razor bumps and ingrown hairs?
The medical term for razor bumps and ingrown hairs is pseudofolliculitis barbae. This is actually a medical condition that affects people with curly hair and develop anywhere the hair is shaved, tweezed, or waxed. Picking or attempting to shave away the hairs is painful, not to mention causes inflammation and the resemblance of acne. When the bumps heal, they leave dark marks on the skin that can appear to be 2 or three shades darker than the natural skin tone, creating hyper-pigmentation (discoloration).

How are they formed?
As curly hair grows out of the skin it curves sharply, bending and digging back into the skin. Cutting the hair makes those hair edges even sharper allowing it to pierce the skin as it grows and the skin reacts as though it has been penetrated by a "foreign body" with redness, itchiness and inflammation causing a razor bump or ingrown hair.

Are there any ways to prevent them?
Trying to pick out the hair is not recommended because this may cause infections and scars. The best thing to do is change the way you shave. Always shave immediately after taking a shower or bath because your pores are open, your skin is soft and moisturized. Be careful not to stretch or tug on the skin, be gentle. Be picky about the shaving cream you use; scented products may irritate the skin. Find a razor that gives you the best results. The object should be to get a close enough shave to prevent the hairs from curling back into the skin. Make sure the blade is not dull and replace the blade or disposable razor after a few uses. Be sure to shave in the direction that the hair is growing and shave the area only once. If you are prone to razor bumps and ingrown hairs, go beyond just shaving and washing your face, create a skincare regiment that will work for you. This may mean having a morning or evening routine as well as taking prescription medicines or going to get treatments. Wear an oil-free sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection with an SPF of 20 + (preferably with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide). Before applying any new product, always test on a patch of skin on the inside fold of your arm first, just in case you skin may have an allergic reaction.

Products Recommendations:
- Aveeno Shave Gel - a fragrance-free smooth gel that contains oatmeal and allantoin (agent that moisturizes and soothes damaged skin)

- Neutrogena Razor Defense - thick gel that softens the skin and hair without being too greasy or irritating

Glytone Serious Shave Cream - contains glycolic acid, a chemical that speeds up the skin's process of shedding dead skin cells and leaves the skin feeling smooth


Neutrogena Moisture - good moisturizer

Bobbi Brown Soothing Face Tonic - contains green tea and glycerine which attracts moisture and soothes the skin

Eucerin Renewal Alpha Hydroxy Lotion- For Face - works as a good moisturizer after you shave when your skin is completely dry (applying while wet may irritate skin)

Tend Skin - popular brand that has been proven effective for many men. It contains beta hydroxy or salicylic acid. 

Blinc for Ingrown Hairs - a form of microdermabrasion recommended by Dulce Candy

What kind of treatment is available?
Lightsheer Diode Lazer - highly recommended because this treatment allows the hair to be removed almost painlessly and improves the condition of the skin. (can be expensive)

Chemical Peels - removes the top layers of dead skin cells, eliminating roughness that razor bumps form, reduces inflammation, evens skin tone, and boosts natural collagen which improves the texture of your skin overall.

Prescription Meds - Retin-A, Differin, or Tazorac - used to even the skin color. In moderate to severe cases Doxycycline-Doryx or minocycline-Dynacin will be prescribed as an oral antibiotic.

Microdermabrasion/Microhydration - spraying of tiny particles, usually crystals of salt or aluminum oxide to blast away the top layer of skin.  This also stimulates the production of collagen and refreshes the skin. 

The Science of Makeup: How the Skin Works Part 2

We left off last week discussing that what goes on, around and in our body affects our health.  We want to be healthy so we can feel good and look good.  That means taking care of our skin. Skins job is to serve as a protective barrier against bacteria, the environment, chemicals, poisons, and the wear and tear of life's everyday activities. Skin filters water in and out. Sweat glands in the skin control your temperature, sweating to cool off and reacting with chills and goosebumps when you are too cold. You have nerves in your skin that communicate subconsciously to you causing you to react with a flinch if someone catches you off guard. The top layer of skin (the first 15 - 40 layers) is called the epidermis. Most of this is made up of dead skin cells and it is a collection of flattened, protein filled cells stacked like layers on a cake. The cells move from layer to layer creating filament of protein called keratin and a grainy substance called keratohyaline. This protein and grainy substance kill the cells in a process called keratinization. And yes, Keratin is the same substance you find in your hair, as well as your nails, but the skin on your body is much smoother and flexible. At the end of this processes these cells become tough enough to do it's job as skin.

Skin Color

Melanocyte cells are responsible for the pigment or melanin in your skin. Everyone has the same number of these cells, regardless of their color. These cells produce tiny packages of granules called melanosomes, which is a super fast color delivery system that works nonstop all day, everyday. If we were to look at these cells close up, they are clear with a dark spot in the center with arms extended outward. The arms are what deliver the packages of color (melanosomes) to the keratinocyte cells. The keratinocyte cells carry the pigment of your skin and hair color.

Why do I have dark skin?

What you've learned so far is the system of skin works to create pigment and color.  The actual color of your skin is determined by a few different factors.  There are two major types of melanin produced by the melanocytes, eumelanin and pheomelanin.  People of color (Asian, olive, and dark skin) produce more emelanin than lighter skinned people.  People with fair or lighter skin produce more pheomelanin than people with darker skin. Whether or not you produce more emelanin or pheomelanin is determined through your DNA.

Other factors that contribute to your skins color are size and placement of the packages of color (melanosomes). The pattern of of melanosomes is different in people of color.  Melanosomes in darker skinned people are bigger and more spread out and more dense and packed together in people with fair skin. Also, the melanocytes in dark skin are very active and continuously working to produce more pigment than that of white or fair skin.  That amount is also determined by your DNA. The function of pigment is to protect against the sun's ultraviolet rays, so melanin is in all skin, dark and fair. 

People of color also have a unique protein structure that works below the dermis. The dermis has varying layers of thickness throughout your body. It has a network of blood vessel, hair follicles, nerve fibers, muscle cells, sweat glands, and oil glands called the sebaceous glands, bundles of protein fibers called collagen. Collagen is what gives the skin strength, and elastic fibers that allow it to stretch.  Wrinkles begin in this layer of skin when the collagen begans to wear out.  In Asian, olive and dark skin the structure of collagen explains why your skin reacts differently to stresses than white skin does. Dark skin is not thicker than fair skin; the thick bundles of collagen give dark skin a different physical tone. 

So why is all this important?

It's crazy to think that people have been, and still are, discriminated based on the color of their skin when we consider that skin color is a genetic and un-controlable functioning and makeup of our body determined by cells and DNA.  It's unfortunate and sad and we must continue to fight discrimination by empowering others with education.

Although I have provided a lot of info in the last two post on how skin works, there is still a ton about skin and why people of color are affected differently than fair skin, that doctors and researchers still don't know. It's important to find that information to treat and cure different conditions such as keloids (thick scars that grow larger than the original wound) which are more commonly found in skin of color. Using what we do know about the skin can help us to control, treat and care for it. We want nothing more than to wear our best skin!

Continue reading next Friday to learn about Acne in The Science of Makeup. The Science of Makeup will be a series of posts that will go in depth about the technical and theoretical aspects of beauty and skin care.

Beautiful Skin of Color: A Comprehensive Guide to Asian, Olive and Dark Skin. Cook-Bolden, Downie, Taylor. (2004).